The coast of Spain. I was so focused on the mountains I haven’t conjured up any images for the coast. I think that’s better, certainly more in the spirit of discovery. I welcome the day with sunrise over the sea. 

 The first few kilometers of biking are stunning! This is why people talk about the coast of Spain! Sweet little beaches tucked in rocky nooks, remnants of castles and fortressses grace dominant points while the road winds around cliffs and hugs coves. 

I’ve made another friend. Jörgen, a German who is retired and lives and travels in his RV, has been kind. It started with the bike pump. My soft tires required a pump with power. spotting his carbon fiber beauty I knew he had one! He fed me dinner, a traditional Swedish dish with potatoes, melted cheese and ham. Delicious! He joins me for the first part of the ride pointing out the best overlooks and vistas. He’s spent a few winters here and I appreciate my personal guided tour. 

Jorgen and the bikes.
Looking down on Calahunda from one of “the best vistas”

Once the hills start and traffic increases, Jorgen leaves me to go it alone. Yes, I said hills. Remember the irrational promises to my legs the day before….. the coast is not flat. Much to to my shagrin I will be climbing 1000 meters again today, but it will be in small bits, 150m at a time. I owe my body some deep massages when I get to Thailand!

A portion of the first days ride!

The ride is a mix of landscape. It changes from quiet and natural to larger towns and whizzing traffic, back to quiet and rural over the course of the day. I’ve booked a hostel in Nerja because it is a good middle point to Malaga. Jorgen told me it’s famous for 3 things: Caves, a specific food item and…… well I can’t remember the other because I was caught on caves.

Nejra is a city on the coast. I was surprised how much I enjoyed it based on how touristy it is. It has this amazing “Balcon de Europa” which is a big elevated  balcony that projects out from the beach so you get striking views of Malaga. It’s delightful both day and night. 

 

This very clever statue stands on the Balcon! I am sure he is the subject of many photos.

Then there are the caves. I have spent time spelunking, helmets and headlights, crawling through tight spots, breathing dusty air, slipping on muddy slopes and generally haveing an amazing time exploring underground. The Nerja caves are a tourist attraction and rightfully so, they are a spectacular sight.  They were only discovered in 1960! While much building went on to create the stairwells and pathways for tourists, there is also a lot of conservation, continuing research and excavation. The cave is volumous with big towers of stalagtites and stalagmites. The ceilings over 100 ft tall! They were used by ancient peoples for living and burials. There are cave drawings which aren’t open to the public that document the histroy of the people’s there. I have a few pictures below, but they don’t capture the granduer. If you want to see more check out the virtual tour at: Nerja cave

The caves were a morning adventure on my last day of cycling. What I really needed was a day of rest, to sit on the beach in Nerja and let the sun permeate my tired muscles. I needed the sweet sound of waves to lull me and clear my mind for transitions to come…. but what I had to do was bike to Malaga. 

I did this day in reverse, resting in the morning, making a big lunch at the hostel and taking off around 3 in the afternoon. Cooler temps, a gentler sun, and only 45km to bike. I could have stayed in Nerja another day or so…. hiked in the hills behind town and discoverd their secrets. But such is the way of travel. One often has to move on. It leaves a sweet memory and desire to return. I have been holding that mindframe as my days in Spain are winding down to an end. 

I get on the bike for the last ride of this trip. Despite being pancake flat my legs protest a bit but the coast is a constant companion and keeps my spirits up. 

But google maps….oh one more foible with you! Approximately 16 km from Malaga google takes me off the main road. I question it at first, but the roads have names, it makes sense since the traffic has become quite dense… I take it and of course foibled again!! I find myself climbing a steep dirt road which I actually have to get off the bike and walk in spots. I’m cursing myself and the map program. I should know by now… but I checked and the roads have names!! On closer inspection the name is “Camino de Tollas” and camino means unimproved. Ah yes…. I laugh. Once I get to the top, which really was short in comparison to anything in the last 3 days, I appreciate the view and lack of traffic. Google has taken me off the beaten path on this trip to places I wouldn’t have seen. I’m grateful and impressed my perspective could shift in just a few minutes. Traveling IS changing me and in this case for the better. 

A good 7 km out from Malaga the towns are getting closer and I feel the shift to larger city. This is the last of the time on my bike. The next few days will be logistics: finding a bike box, getting tape, navigating all this in spanish and a city I don’t know. The tenor of my days will change as I prepare myself to leave spain. 

But first Malaga, it’s fresh fish, Flamenco, sunshine and beaches. I’m meeting my friend Sam here, who I met on the goat farm. It will be fun to have a day with her and will certainly bring a full circle sense to my time in Spain.